Tam's Travels 2018 Recap: 4 Days in Paris

Having been to Paris twice, frankly I have to say I am not a huge fan. Granted, both of my visits were during late winter, the weather was cold, windy, rainy, and the streets were devoid of life and color.
On top of that, on my most recent trip, there was a "greve", one of France's famous rail strikes, throughout my stay.
I'm an extreme budget traveler, so the list of things I could do was limited.

I stayed true to my love of and search for history. I walked across the Seine to Ile de la Cite and around the exterior of Notre Dame studying its intricate facade. 

I strolled along the Seine bank to see how far the flood waters had receded since their peak before my arrival. It had been some of the worst flooding on record. 

Seine flood receding March 2018

Seine flooding, March 2018

I spent several hours marveling at the collections of The Louvre and admiring the architecture of the museum itself. The modern design of the Pyrmid entrance made for some interesting compositions.

I think my favorite experience of the entire 4 days, however, was discovering St Germain des Pres Church on the Left Bank. Although the colorfully painted interior is not the original, I still had the sense of living history.

Have you been to Paris? What are your thoughts on it as a destionation? What things did you like or dislike about it?

Moving Forward from September 2019

For those of you new to my blog, I thought I'd offer some who, what, where, when, why related to my life of travel to help you better understand what I do and why I do it.

I turned 51 this year. I've had to start thinking about what is really important in my life, what things bring deep value and meaning to my existence. Not that 51 is "old" (although some days it feelslike it!), but realistically I have to start doing the things which matter. Our time on the planet is not unlimited!

I have been passionate about travel since my school days and began wandering in earnest about 20 years ago. In 2009 I chose to become an expat nomad. My goal is to spend the majority of my time outside my country of origin. Since then I have lived in India and Nepal as well as done seasonal work at southwestern US national parks (Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, etc) in between.

I have a particular interest in places which hold deep spiritual meaning, strong historic ties, and/or a wild rugged landscape (even better, a combination of all three). Most of my posts will be about the reasons these places are important to me and why I feel they are relevant to the world/everyday life. Hopefully I can interest YOU to check them out further, whether in person or online! 

I hope to impart the knowledge that you do not have to be rich or even financially secure to lead a life of travel. You DO need to decide what you are willing to give up in exchange, however. I have never owned a car, have no permanent residence, and own little more than what I can carry with me.

You have to decide whether you need a travel experience where you can shop for souvenirs and dine in expensive restaurants, or whether you would rather focus on simply seeing destinations first hand and learning the local culture.

I work online and make just enough money to cover monthly rentals (which I now mainly do via Airbnb). I am blessed to have someone who helps me cover food/medical necessities. Hopefully that will not be necessary much longer once this blog and related projects take off!

In addition to posting here, I will be creating travel postcards, prints and other photo gifts from the road. I will be adding new slideshows and videos at my Tam's Travels YouTube channel Eventually I will publish photo books of my favorite destinations. I hope you will support those ventures too to help keep me on the road! 

For the next month, I'm stuck at that "in between" place of waiting for my next adventure, 4-6 months in Mexico, which will start 21 October. I will spend one month each in Puerto Escondido (beach in Oaxaca), Puerto Vallaera area, Mexico City and the Colonial Heartkand, and the Maya Riviera region. Beyond that, budget permitting, I am considering Xalapa followed by Guanajuato (although neither is as yet booked and subject to change at a moment's notice!).

Photo essay posts will resume this coming week. In the meantime, here's a look at a couple of test versions of a new banner. Your feedback on it is welcome, as I feel there is something not quite right with it that I can't place, but please be kind!  

Reviving the Creative Drive 2019

Grand Canyon: Light & Shadow Book Preview

UPDATED 26 September 2019

I have been photographing a wide variety of locations and subjects over the past year. Actually for the past many years. However, it has taken me a long time to recover psychologically from the loss of thousands of images when my laptop was stolen in New Delhi India during summer 2017. Sadly, a failed backup prior to the theft meant years' worth of work was simply gone, a traumatic experience for any creative. 

2019 has been an interesting journey, and there are still 3 months of it left!

I have been working on several projects, from my Grand Canyon and western USA national Parks archives as well as from trips this year in France, Turkey and a revisit to northern India.

I am planning the release of Grand Canyon: Light & Shadow, my first photo book [on hold indefinately] (image preview above). I am also working on Earth Art, a series of photos and altered photos of natural formations. Also planned are a collection from ancient and medieval sites in France, a small series from Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, and a series from Yellowstone National Park.

(newly added)
My India trip was cut short due to health issues, as was my return to work at Grand Canyon South Rim in summer 2019. I have been reevaluating what is mportant now that I am in my 50s. I have committed to a return to regular posts on this blog, and now have a companion page called Tam's Travels on Facebook with additional content.

In addition, I have booked 4 months of a trip to Mexico starting in late October 2019 which will hopefully be extended at least 2 months beyond that, and I have begun researching for South America too! 

The next several planned posts here on the blog will be flashbacks to last year in France. Enjoy and stay tuned!

You never know where I might end up next!

The Lollipop Kids: Kids Being Kids Part One

It is mid-afternoon on a crazy weather day here in the Himalaya of Himachal Pradesh, with thunder, hail, snow, and sun warm enough to walk outside barefoot, and I suddenly remembered that I had planned to post here today. It has been a hectic week, mainly because I adopted a very young kitten who has no concerns for my work or schedule.

At any rate, this week's post is the first of several I will make on kids being kids. Life for children in this region can be complicated and difficult, not more so for any particular culture or ethnic group, but because life here is, well, a challenge. 

Still, childhood has certain joys and freedoms not shared by adults. At least not as freely and openly! The freedom to make sure your tongue acquires a particular color from your lollipop is one of them.

Really Enjoying the Taste

Eyes Popping Out of her Head with Joy

My Sucker Matches My Muffler

And So Does My Tongue

All images copyright Tammy Winand and may not be used without my written consent. For usage permissions or to download as stock, please visit my galleries at:
*MostPhotos (largest selection of India, Nepal, Tibetan and Himalayan imagery)
*ShutterStock
*dreamstime stock
*fotolia 
*123rf 

Jagdish Mandir in Udaipur Rajasthan

       The beautiful Jagdish Mandir (temple) in Udaipur is one of the city's main attractions. An amazing example of 17th century architecture from a style known as Maru-Gurjara, a combination for the ancient regional names of Rajasthan and Gujarat, states which historically had ethnic, cultural, and political ties with one another.

       The temple was completed in 1651 AD by Maharana Jagat Singh, known as the greatest builder of the Mewar dynasty in Rajasthan. It features elaborate stone carved facades depicting wildlife, particularly elephants and horses, as well as figures of royalty and deities. 

Figures Carved in Jagdish Mandir Temple Udaipur

Sadhus Seated Around Jagdish Mandir

More Carved Figures on Jagdish Mandir Facade

All images copyright Tammy Winand and may not be used without my written consent. For usage permissions or to download as stock, please visit my galleries at:
*MostPhotos (largest selection of India, Nepal, Tibetan and Himalayan imagery)
*ShutterStock
*dreamstime stock
*fotolia 
*123rf 

Reflections on Las Vegas from a Part Time Resident

I arrived in Las Vegas for the first time on 19 October 2014 after finishing the work season at Grand Canyon National Park North Rim. I was both terrified and excited, having heard both thrilling stories of partying and leading a glamorous life on The Strip, as well as horror stories of drunks, destitution, and danger away from the tourist areas.

I spent a fabulous first week exploring the glitz of The Strip, and spending far too much money.

Following that week of fun, I had to learn not to be afraid of the walk from our weekly apartment several blocks north of downtown on Fremont Street, passing by groups of homeless, avoiding the attempted pick ups by men in passing cars.

As a photographer, I tried to turn my attention to aspects of the city that most visitors never see, yet not focus on obvious subjects.

I decided to shoot architectural abstracts, reflections, graffiti and street art. There are a fascinating array of shapes and forms in the everyday details. I added a great number of these to my instagram acccount.

Here are a few of my favorite non instagram images from my early days in Vegas.

Fremont Street Experience

Sunset from the Pool of Golden Nugget

Not All is Perfect in Vegas

Chandelier Detail

Today is my last day in Las Vegas for the foreseeable future.

Looking forward:
I am on my way back to live and work at Grand Canyon National Park South Rim, where I first entered this seasonal work lifestyle back in February 2007. I have not been there since early 2009, and am anxious to return. I have always thought of it as home, in many ways.

Over the coming weeks and months I intend to concentrate my blog posts on various aspects of life in Grand Canyon Village that will be unfamiliar to most vacationers to the park. From details of canyon geology to sweeping canyon skies, from unique off trail perspectives to more unique and bizarre image series that I'll surprise you with in the future!

My next planned post will be a feature on the Route 66 wall murals in Flagstaff, Arizona en route to South Rim!

Resurrecting the Dead

I have been pondering, once again, whether it is possible for me to resurrect the dead.
The dead, in this case, of course, being this blog.
At the very least, like a volcano, it was been dormant for a couple of years!

I find it very difficult to stick to a regular posting schedule. Sometimes I find myself living in remote locations for several months at a time. Internet is not always available. At other times, my work schedule makes finding time to post complicated. I maintain multiple social media sites and sales profiles for my work that take precedence.

I have been doing a decent job, I think, adding to my photography portfolios the past week or so.
Maybe it is time to take the leap and commit to blogging again, too?

I suppose it will become clear as the days ahead slip behind...

Shopping for Souvenirs in Kathmandu

       One of the joys of traveling to another country, especially one as exotic as Nepal, is the thrill of bringing home unique souvenirs of another culture, generally something that represents an authentic bit of the place we experienced. But how do you know what to look for? How do you know what you are bringing home is a genuine cultural piece and not just something the vendor whipped up to make a few quick rupees?

       Unfortunately, unless you are in a remote village or have an honest native guide, most of the pieces you find in tourist areas or on the street are not going to be the same as those used by locals. This doesn't mean they aren't regional products or not something a local would use, just that they are most likely cheap copies. You can combat this to some extent, if you are staying more than a few days, by trying to observe where the area's residents shop.

Ceremonial Tibetan Buddhist Paraphernalia at a Shop Frequented by Locals 

       Thamel is where most westerners seem to head, the neighborhood which gained popularity as the destination for hippies, musicians and artists. This is where you will be overwhelmed by tourist trinkets and the most over-anxious vendors who try to charm you into a purchase. Be wary and always bargain as hard as you are comfortable. Don't be embarrassed to walk away if a "deal" simply does not suit your budget or integrity. 

       In Boudhanath, a major Buddhist pilgrimage site, the community is a mix of different Nepalese ethnic groups and Tibetans. Good souvenir choices here include fabrics and Tibetan Buddhist artifacts ranging from jewelry to handheld prayer wheels to thangka tapestries and statues. Many items, including deity masks, furniture and tea services, are new but designed with aged, distressed finishes. Beware the shopkeeper who tries to sell you one of these pieces for an exorbitant price, claiming it is an authentic ancient artifact.

       Most travelers to Nepal and India have heard that they should bargain and barter. The general rule of thumb is to offer roughly half the original asking price and then be prepared to face a few counter offers. Even that might be more than what a savvy local would pay. Unless you are an expat living in the area long term, you are almost certain never to get a local price. Nonetheless, the price you get can be a great one. Just remember never to pay the original asking price or offer what you think a particular item might cost "at home"

Ghau Prayer Boxes and Other Jewelry Displayed Outside Shop in Boudhanath, Kathmandu, Nepal

Buddha Statues, Prayer Wheels and Trinkets Outside a Shop in Boudha District

       Try to visit areas away from the main tourist centers when bargain hunting. Backpackers guides often offer great tips on those locations. Shopkeepers in these locations are much more appreciative of extra business and less willing to lose a sale than vendors in the heavily tourist trafficked areas.

Incense Burners for Buddhist Offerings and Prayer Beads 

       A final tip: Head to the shops early in the morning, as soon as you notice they are open. It is considered bad luck for the day's business to lose the first customer of the day, so this is usually when you will find the best deals.  In my personal experience, if you are diligent, you may be able to get up to 400% off what the average tourist pays.

The Changing Tibetan Language

The following is an excerpt from Everyday Exile: Life in the Tibetan Settlements of India and Nepal,  by Tammy Winand.

       One of the topics which always interested me in my observations of the Tibetan exile community is the evolution of the culture's native language since the 1959 diaspora in Nepal, India and Bhutan (and now beyond, in western countries) following the Chinese occupation.

       Within Tibet, there are numerous regional dialects of Tibetan. A native of Amdo province may have difficulty communicating verbally with a native of U-Tsang. Since the occupation, it is not unusual for them to have to resort to the Chinese taught in schools to communicate with one another. In some places in Tibet, Tibetan language is no longer taught.

Tibetan U-Chen Style Script Chart

     

       New arrivals from Tibet to the exile communities express difficulty in understanding, sometimes even recognizing, the local dialect as Tibetan. Again, they must often use Chinese to speak with other Tibetans. I witnessed this first hand among the residents of Gu Chu Sum Ex-Political Prisoner Association.

       Dharamsala area officials tell me all new arrivals are offered standard Tibetan language classes when they are matriculated into the community (at Tibetan Transit School). All children born in exile are taught Tibetan language in the school system. However, there are still those who fall through the cracks, whether they somehow arrive undocumented or do not, for whatever reason, attend the offered classes.

        In the Tibetan exile communities of India and Nepal, the influence of Hindi and English on the language is apparent. In local dialect, words such as “pey-cha” (a corruption of the Hindi “paisa”, a monetary unit) and “aloo” (Hindi for potato) are typically used in place of the respective Tibetan “go mo” and “sho gko” for money and potato.

       Walking in the street, one is as likely to hear Tibetan children speaking English or Hindi as Tibetan. Some high school students only want to speak in English with westerners, for various reasons, often refusing to speak Tibetan even with foreigners who are conversant.

Students at TCV Lower in McleodGanj Using English After Class

       A geshe from Lhasa who has been in India more than two decades told me that when he had a chance to return to visit friends and family in Tibet, they asked him jokingly “Where are you from?” because, they told him, his speech had become “very strange”.

       In November 2010, school students from McLeodGanj organized “Language Preservation” marches, circling the town square and 2 main streets with cards showing the Tibetan alphabet. They took pledges to speak and preserve the Tibetan language, with certain days (Lhakhar, aka White Wednesday) where they will only speak Tibetan. Some communities in Tibet are also applying this pledge, refusing to speak Chinese in shops within Tibetan areas, and imposing fines for every Chinese word used.

Tibetan Youth in Dharamsala Signing Pledges for Freedom of Language Language Solidarity March, November 2010

Tibetan Faces Travel Portrait Series Launched

My new photography series, Tibetan Faces travel portraits, features the people of the exile settlements in India and Nepal. It explores the concept of "what is a Tibetan?" and examines how traditions battle with modern influence in their evolving society. 

Image #1 shows a young Tibetan girl in a traditional chupa dress attending festivities at Tsuglakhang, the main temple, the week of His Holiness the Dalai Lama's birthday in 2011.

The second feature is a touching image of a grandmother and her grandchildren, this time wearing modern western everyday clothing, at the same festival.                                                                                            

Over the coming days and weeks, I will post a variety of images from the Tibetan exile communities showing people going about various aspects of their daily lives. These images show some at their most traditional, both in costume and ritual, and others who choose to present their most modern westernized selves. 


If you are interested in reading much more about the Tibetan exile communities in India and Nepal, please visit my Amazon books by Tammy Winand page http://www.amazon.com/Tammy-Winand/e/B0092DJ2V4

I am currently fundraising to return for further volunteer work in the Tibetan community. My next project will focus on challenges faced by Tibetan women, particularly nuns. Please consider making a donation. Thank you.

Udaipur City Palace

Let me apologize for the gap since my last post. I am running a multitude of projects at multiple sites, and at times one takes a back seat to the others.

In addition, I've been doing a lot of deep inner work regarding processing the past three years of my life, as the past week was the third anniversary of my arrival in the Indian town (McLeodGanj, Upper Dharamsala) which became my second home!
I am now fundraising for my return to India, a trip which will be part pilgrimage and part research for my next book.

But without further ado, let's continue the photo retrospective.

We left off with an overview of Udaipur, a fabled destination in the state of Rajasthan.
Today we are going to visit the city's amazing City Palace.

From the roof of my hotel, the exterior of City Palace seemed like a fairy tale.

Udaipur City Palace Exterior 

The palace grounds are splendid, filled with fountains and gardens.
As usual, I declined a tour guide (unwilling to pay the extra fee on my limited budget) and wandered deeper into the site, where I spotted these guards on their magnificent horses.

Mounted Palace Guards

The interior features ornate carvings, hand painted murals, gilded statues both sacred and secular, graceful lantern fixtures and mirrored ceilings and walls.

As part of the experience, a boat tour is offered, which takes visitors on a cruise around Lake Pichola, including a stop at another famous site, Jag Mandir, which I will feature in my next entry.
From the boat, the magnificent lines of the massive palace can best be appreciated.

Udaipur Overview

I arrived in Udaipur, the City of Lakes, in mid November 2009 after a 17 hour over-night train journey from Mumbai and checked into a budget backpacker's guesthouse in the Old City.

My first impressions were of the contrast between the splendor of the amazing historic architectural landmarks and the poor sanitation of the modern streets. Again, I was overwhelmed by the culture of haggling at shops and my own feelings of embarrassment as I made cultural behavioral bloopers.

Sadhu on Bench near Lake Pichola

From my Sacred Sojourns blog, written 3 days into my Udaipur stay:

"Udaipur…what can I say about the almost magical beauty yet jolting realities of this place?

Imagine, if you can, being in a medieval world, where royalty holds sway in palaces (both real and metaphorical) and common folk struggle to survive in narrow streets teaming with animals and refuse, where open sewage gutters flow in front of luxury restaurants.

Imagine the sounds of dogs, donkeys, cows and locals echoing off plaster walls competing with motorbike engines and auto horns. Imagine muezzin’s prayer calls resounding from mosques throughout the day and Hindu chanting emanating from lakefront temples, competing with modern Bollywood music blaring from rooftop boom boxes and the sounds of construction.

Streets meander past fabulously painted and ornately carved doors and windows and intricate building facades. Shop fronts overflow with richly colored saris and pashminas, traditional antique silver and semi-precious stone jewelry, hand-tooled leather journals, and statues of various Hindu gods in all sizes, old and new. Fruit and vegetable sellers ply their goods between cyber cafes and mobile phone shops.

From the rooftops, especially at dawn and sunset/dusk, the city seems to float above Lake Pichola, as if emerging from or sinking into a dream. Five hundred year old palace ramparts rise on one side, ghats lined with shops and temples on the other, and in the shimmering lake, the mirage-like Jag Mandir and gleaming white Lake Palace complete the scene.

The incongruities of India continue to astound me, sometimes with laughter, sometimes with fears and tears. You never know what will happen next, here."

Cows Grazing in front of Vegetarian Cooking Class Sign

Schoolgirls Walking Behind Construction Pack Animals

Motorbike Parked Beside Traditional Rajasthani Wall Mural

Udaipur, I feel,  was where I finally began to embrace being in India.

Heads up! If you love these images from Udaipur, my FREE iTunes app Rajasthan: Wet and Dry is sure to delight you. Get it for your iPhone or iPad FREE now!