Reflections on Las Vegas from a Part Time Resident

I arrived in Las Vegas for the first time on 19 October 2014 after finishing the work season at Grand Canyon National Park North Rim. I was both terrified and excited, having heard both thrilling stories of partying and leading a glamorous life on The Strip, as well as horror stories of drunks, destitution, and danger away from the tourist areas.

I spent a fabulous first week exploring the glitz of The Strip, and spending far too much money.

Following that week of fun, I had to learn not to be afraid of the walk from our weekly apartment several blocks north of downtown on Fremont Street, passing by groups of homeless, avoiding the attempted pick ups by men in passing cars.

As a photographer, I tried to turn my attention to aspects of the city that most visitors never see, yet not focus on obvious subjects.

I decided to shoot architectural abstracts, reflections, graffiti and street art. There are a fascinating array of shapes and forms in the everyday details. I added a great number of these to my instagram acccount.

Here are a few of my favorite non instagram images from my early days in Vegas.

Fremont Street Experience

Sunset from the Pool of Golden Nugget

Not All is Perfect in Vegas

Chandelier Detail

Today is my last day in Las Vegas for the foreseeable future.

Looking forward:
I am on my way back to live and work at Grand Canyon National Park South Rim, where I first entered this seasonal work lifestyle back in February 2007. I have not been there since early 2009, and am anxious to return. I have always thought of it as home, in many ways.

Over the coming weeks and months I intend to concentrate my blog posts on various aspects of life in Grand Canyon Village that will be unfamiliar to most vacationers to the park. From details of canyon geology to sweeping canyon skies, from unique off trail perspectives to more unique and bizarre image series that I'll surprise you with in the future!

My next planned post will be a feature on the Route 66 wall murals in Flagstaff, Arizona en route to South Rim!

Resurrecting the Dead

I have been pondering, once again, whether it is possible for me to resurrect the dead.
The dead, in this case, of course, being this blog.
At the very least, like a volcano, it was been dormant for a couple of years!

I find it very difficult to stick to a regular posting schedule. Sometimes I find myself living in remote locations for several months at a time. Internet is not always available. At other times, my work schedule makes finding time to post complicated. I maintain multiple social media sites and sales profiles for my work that take precedence.

I have been doing a decent job, I think, adding to my photography portfolios the past week or so.
Maybe it is time to take the leap and commit to blogging again, too?

I suppose it will become clear as the days ahead slip behind...

Shopping for Souvenirs in Kathmandu

       One of the joys of traveling to another country, especially one as exotic as Nepal, is the thrill of bringing home unique souvenirs of another culture, generally something that represents an authentic bit of the place we experienced. But how do you know what to look for? How do you know what you are bringing home is a genuine cultural piece and not just something the vendor whipped up to make a few quick rupees?

       Unfortunately, unless you are in a remote village or have an honest native guide, most of the pieces you find in tourist areas or on the street are not going to be the same as those used by locals. This doesn't mean they aren't regional products or not something a local would use, just that they are most likely cheap copies. You can combat this to some extent, if you are staying more than a few days, by trying to observe where the area's residents shop.

Ceremonial Tibetan Buddhist Paraphernalia at a Shop Frequented by Locals 

       Thamel is where most westerners seem to head, the neighborhood which gained popularity as the destination for hippies, musicians and artists. This is where you will be overwhelmed by tourist trinkets and the most over-anxious vendors who try to charm you into a purchase. Be wary and always bargain as hard as you are comfortable. Don't be embarrassed to walk away if a "deal" simply does not suit your budget or integrity. 

       In Boudhanath, a major Buddhist pilgrimage site, the community is a mix of different Nepalese ethnic groups and Tibetans. Good souvenir choices here include fabrics and Tibetan Buddhist artifacts ranging from jewelry to handheld prayer wheels to thangka tapestries and statues. Many items, including deity masks, furniture and tea services, are new but designed with aged, distressed finishes. Beware the shopkeeper who tries to sell you one of these pieces for an exorbitant price, claiming it is an authentic ancient artifact.

       Most travelers to Nepal and India have heard that they should bargain and barter. The general rule of thumb is to offer roughly half the original asking price and then be prepared to face a few counter offers. Even that might be more than what a savvy local would pay. Unless you are an expat living in the area long term, you are almost certain never to get a local price. Nonetheless, the price you get can be a great one. Just remember never to pay the original asking price or offer what you think a particular item might cost "at home"

Ghau Prayer Boxes and Other Jewelry Displayed Outside Shop in Boudhanath, Kathmandu, Nepal

Buddha Statues, Prayer Wheels and Trinkets Outside a Shop in Boudha District

       Try to visit areas away from the main tourist centers when bargain hunting. Backpackers guides often offer great tips on those locations. Shopkeepers in these locations are much more appreciative of extra business and less willing to lose a sale than vendors in the heavily tourist trafficked areas.

Incense Burners for Buddhist Offerings and Prayer Beads 

       A final tip: Head to the shops early in the morning, as soon as you notice they are open. It is considered bad luck for the day's business to lose the first customer of the day, so this is usually when you will find the best deals.  In my personal experience, if you are diligent, you may be able to get up to 400% off what the average tourist pays.

The Changing Tibetan Language

The following is an excerpt from Everyday Exile: Life in the Tibetan Settlements of India and Nepal,  by Tammy Winand.

       One of the topics which always interested me in my observations of the Tibetan exile community is the evolution of the culture's native language since the 1959 diaspora in Nepal, India and Bhutan (and now beyond, in western countries) following the Chinese occupation.

       Within Tibet, there are numerous regional dialects of Tibetan. A native of Amdo province may have difficulty communicating verbally with a native of U-Tsang. Since the occupation, it is not unusual for them to have to resort to the Chinese taught in schools to communicate with one another. In some places in Tibet, Tibetan language is no longer taught.

Tibetan U-Chen Style Script Chart

     

       New arrivals from Tibet to the exile communities express difficulty in understanding, sometimes even recognizing, the local dialect as Tibetan. Again, they must often use Chinese to speak with other Tibetans. I witnessed this first hand among the residents of Gu Chu Sum Ex-Political Prisoner Association.

       Dharamsala area officials tell me all new arrivals are offered standard Tibetan language classes when they are matriculated into the community (at Tibetan Transit School). All children born in exile are taught Tibetan language in the school system. However, there are still those who fall through the cracks, whether they somehow arrive undocumented or do not, for whatever reason, attend the offered classes.

        In the Tibetan exile communities of India and Nepal, the influence of Hindi and English on the language is apparent. In local dialect, words such as “pey-cha” (a corruption of the Hindi “paisa”, a monetary unit) and “aloo” (Hindi for potato) are typically used in place of the respective Tibetan “go mo” and “sho gko” for money and potato.

       Walking in the street, one is as likely to hear Tibetan children speaking English or Hindi as Tibetan. Some high school students only want to speak in English with westerners, for various reasons, often refusing to speak Tibetan even with foreigners who are conversant.

Students at TCV Lower in McleodGanj Using English After Class

       A geshe from Lhasa who has been in India more than two decades told me that when he had a chance to return to visit friends and family in Tibet, they asked him jokingly “Where are you from?” because, they told him, his speech had become “very strange”.

       In November 2010, school students from McLeodGanj organized “Language Preservation” marches, circling the town square and 2 main streets with cards showing the Tibetan alphabet. They took pledges to speak and preserve the Tibetan language, with certain days (Lhakhar, aka White Wednesday) where they will only speak Tibetan. Some communities in Tibet are also applying this pledge, refusing to speak Chinese in shops within Tibetan areas, and imposing fines for every Chinese word used.

Tibetan Youth in Dharamsala Signing Pledges for Freedom of Language Language Solidarity March, November 2010

Tibetan Faces Travel Portrait Series Launched

My new photography series, Tibetan Faces travel portraits, features the people of the exile settlements in India and Nepal. It explores the concept of "what is a Tibetan?" and examines how traditions battle with modern influence in their evolving society. 

Image #1 shows a young Tibetan girl in a traditional chupa dress attending festivities at Tsuglakhang, the main temple, the week of His Holiness the Dalai Lama's birthday in 2011.

The second feature is a touching image of a grandmother and her grandchildren, this time wearing modern western everyday clothing, at the same festival.                                                                                            

Over the coming days and weeks, I will post a variety of images from the Tibetan exile communities showing people going about various aspects of their daily lives. These images show some at their most traditional, both in costume and ritual, and others who choose to present their most modern westernized selves. 


If you are interested in reading much more about the Tibetan exile communities in India and Nepal, please visit my Amazon books by Tammy Winand page http://www.amazon.com/Tammy-Winand/e/B0092DJ2V4

I am currently fundraising to return for further volunteer work in the Tibetan community. My next project will focus on challenges faced by Tibetan women, particularly nuns. Please consider making a donation. Thank you.

Udaipur City Palace

Let me apologize for the gap since my last post. I am running a multitude of projects at multiple sites, and at times one takes a back seat to the others.

In addition, I've been doing a lot of deep inner work regarding processing the past three years of my life, as the past week was the third anniversary of my arrival in the Indian town (McLeodGanj, Upper Dharamsala) which became my second home!
I am now fundraising for my return to India, a trip which will be part pilgrimage and part research for my next book.

But without further ado, let's continue the photo retrospective.

We left off with an overview of Udaipur, a fabled destination in the state of Rajasthan.
Today we are going to visit the city's amazing City Palace.

From the roof of my hotel, the exterior of City Palace seemed like a fairy tale.

Udaipur City Palace Exterior 

The palace grounds are splendid, filled with fountains and gardens.
As usual, I declined a tour guide (unwilling to pay the extra fee on my limited budget) and wandered deeper into the site, where I spotted these guards on their magnificent horses.

Mounted Palace Guards

The interior features ornate carvings, hand painted murals, gilded statues both sacred and secular, graceful lantern fixtures and mirrored ceilings and walls.

As part of the experience, a boat tour is offered, which takes visitors on a cruise around Lake Pichola, including a stop at another famous site, Jag Mandir, which I will feature in my next entry.
From the boat, the magnificent lines of the massive palace can best be appreciated.

Udaipur Overview

I arrived in Udaipur, the City of Lakes, in mid November 2009 after a 17 hour over-night train journey from Mumbai and checked into a budget backpacker's guesthouse in the Old City.

My first impressions were of the contrast between the splendor of the amazing historic architectural landmarks and the poor sanitation of the modern streets. Again, I was overwhelmed by the culture of haggling at shops and my own feelings of embarrassment as I made cultural behavioral bloopers.

Sadhu on Bench near Lake Pichola

From my Sacred Sojourns blog, written 3 days into my Udaipur stay:

"Udaipur…what can I say about the almost magical beauty yet jolting realities of this place?

Imagine, if you can, being in a medieval world, where royalty holds sway in palaces (both real and metaphorical) and common folk struggle to survive in narrow streets teaming with animals and refuse, where open sewage gutters flow in front of luxury restaurants.

Imagine the sounds of dogs, donkeys, cows and locals echoing off plaster walls competing with motorbike engines and auto horns. Imagine muezzin’s prayer calls resounding from mosques throughout the day and Hindu chanting emanating from lakefront temples, competing with modern Bollywood music blaring from rooftop boom boxes and the sounds of construction.

Streets meander past fabulously painted and ornately carved doors and windows and intricate building facades. Shop fronts overflow with richly colored saris and pashminas, traditional antique silver and semi-precious stone jewelry, hand-tooled leather journals, and statues of various Hindu gods in all sizes, old and new. Fruit and vegetable sellers ply their goods between cyber cafes and mobile phone shops.

From the rooftops, especially at dawn and sunset/dusk, the city seems to float above Lake Pichola, as if emerging from or sinking into a dream. Five hundred year old palace ramparts rise on one side, ghats lined with shops and temples on the other, and in the shimmering lake, the mirage-like Jag Mandir and gleaming white Lake Palace complete the scene.

The incongruities of India continue to astound me, sometimes with laughter, sometimes with fears and tears. You never know what will happen next, here."

Cows Grazing in front of Vegetarian Cooking Class Sign

Schoolgirls Walking Behind Construction Pack Animals

Motorbike Parked Beside Traditional Rajasthani Wall Mural

Udaipur, I feel,  was where I finally began to embrace being in India.

Heads up! If you love these images from Udaipur, my FREE iTunes app Rajasthan: Wet and Dry is sure to delight you. Get it for your iPhone or iPad FREE now!

Leaving Mumbai

I left Mumbai on November 11, 2009 on the overnight train to Udaipur. The house boy, who spoke no English, took me via taxi to the station, as my host was working, and made sure I got safely on the coach.

For some reason, the ride across Mumbai made a greater visual impression on me than many other aspects of my stay there. Tropical Cyclone Phyan, for which the warning was posted about an hour before my departure from Bombay, caused localized flooding and traffic jams. It was the coolest weather since my arrival in India.

Haji Ali Mosque

Children in Flooded Street

Traffic Jam

Street Scene

Next stop...Udaipur Overview

Awas Beach Trip

One of my adventures during my stay in Mumbai was a day trip to my friend's family beach house in Awas. We took an early morning ferry from the Gateway of India heading south across a spit of the Arabian Sea. The boat was crowded with day trippers including families, foreign tourists, and a mens' soccer team. There was a lot of picnicking, card playing, and some even had musical instruments for everyone to sing along. 

En route, the variety of tiny wooden fishing boats bobbing on the water next to huge cargo ships was mind boggling. 

Eventually we arrived at the Mandwa Jetty pier and procured a very old auto rikshaw to take us to Awas village. 

The family home sits in a huge tropical garden overflowing with vines and a variety of both wild and cultivated plants tended by an elderly caretaker and his wife who live on the property.

We walked through the village to the wide beach, which my friend told me is one of the cleanest in the entire region due to the current moving rubbish away from shore. Many beaches around Mumbai are not safe for swimming due to severe pollution.

Cargo Ships on Arabian Sea

Small Fishing Boat on Arabian Sea

Schoolgirls in Awas Village

Vines on the Beach House

Sandy Expanse at Awas Beach

Family Dog with Bindi on Forehead

 Although it was very hot and humid the day of our visit (as most of the year is), I have fond memories of the day.

Mumbai...A Look Back

The Living Room of My Safe Have in Mumbai, my Friend's Family Apartment

I have decided to take a step back and review, in words and images, my days in India, from my arrival in October 2009 to my (thus far) last departure in October 2011. With a tentative return scheduled for early 2013, this seems like a good time to review my journey thus far, and to share a bit of what India means to me. My intent is to present a set of images from each place I visited, along with a few words on why they were so meaningful to me.

I arrived in Mumbai in late October 2009, totally unprepared for the "organized chaos" of India. For those more interested in words, and my state of mind at the time, I blogged the trip at Sacred Sojourns, starting with the post  "Thus Far on My Journey".

Curious Local Youth at Chai Walla (Tea Vendor)...People stare at strangers quite openly in India.

Taj Hotel and Gateway of India

Boats on Arabian Sea

Kalba Devi Bazaar District was over-crowded, a maze of noise and  activity, and an assault on all the senses

Colorful Salwar and Fabric Shops...India is a riot of color!

Where Does the Time Go?

Here it is late August already. I am still thinking, or re-thinking, the direction I want to take with this blog.
One thing I know: I want to share my photography.

What I do not know:
Should I do a single image post each week from all of my past travels?
Should I stick to a theme of only India & Tibetan/Buddhism related images, where my interest and passion lies?
Or should I stay with my present location (Chicago) and current work (cityscape and street)?
(Your input in comments is most definitely welcome!)

Meanwhile, I give you...a Buddha from Tamil Nadu...

This stone Buddha carving is located in the Alsdorf Gallery of Asian Art at the Art Institute of Chicago, where I work.

July Update

Since my last post, my life has been more than a little unsettled.
I moved into a new studio/apartment and unpacked all of my possessions and supplies for the first time since 2004.
I also started a new job at the Art Institute of Chicago museum gift shop, which occupies the majority of my time.
My days off have been dedicated to cleaning and stocking my new home, and resting up from work.

I feel like things are finally beginning to settle into place, but I have a long way to go on prioritizing all my creative pursuits to make the best use of what little free time I now have available.

Thanks for being patient with my lack of new image posts.
Let me leave you with a couple of contrasting shots from the Alsdorf Gallery of Asian Art at the Art Institute to tide you over til next time.

Carved Stone Deity from Himalayan Region

Japanese Floral Arrangement

It's in the Details

The details of landscape, both natural and man-made, have fascinated me for at least the past decade. Since relocating to Chicago, I've been actively pursuing unique perspectives on the urban landscape.
Nothing is off limits. I have been shooting subjects as simple, and unusual, as manhole covers, cracks in the sidewalk, pipes and wires, shadows, abstract patterns in the metalwork of bridges, and traffic signage.

This week I'll give you a sampler, a range of images you may find familiar or foreign, depending on your point of reference.

Rusted Structure

Rusted Metal Marker in Chicago River

Manhole Cover in Cracked Pavement

Chicago's 'L' Train Tracks