Monday, September 23, 2013

Shopping for Souvenirs in Kathmandu

       One of the joys of traveling to another country, especially one as exotic as Nepal, is the thrill of bringing home unique souvenirs of another culture, generally something that represents an authentic bit of the place we experienced. But how do you know what to look for? How do you know what you are bringing home is a genuine cultural piece and not just something the vendor whipped up to make a few quick rupees?

       Unfortunately, unless you are in a remote village or have an honest native guide, most of the pieces you find in tourist areas or on the street are not going to be the same as those used by locals. This doesn't mean they aren't regional products or not something a local would use, just that they are most likely cheap copies. You can combat this to some extent, if you are staying more than a few days, by trying to observe where the area's residents shop.

Ceremonial Tibetan Buddhist Paraphernalia at a Shop Frequented by Locals 


       Thamel is where most westerners seem to head, the neighborhood which gained popularity as the destination for hippies, musicians and artists. This is where you will be overwhelmed by tourist trinkets and the most over-anxious vendors who try to charm you into a purchase. Be wary and always bargain as hard as you are comfortable. Don't be embarrassed to walk away if a "deal" simply does not suit your budget or integrity. 



       In Boudhanath, a major Buddhist pilgrimage site, the community is a mix of different Nepalese ethnic groups and Tibetans. Good souvenir choices here include fabrics and Tibetan Buddhist artifacts ranging from jewelry to handheld prayer wheels to thangka tapestries and statues. Many items, including deity masks, furniture and tea services, are new but designed with aged, distressed finishes. Beware the shopkeeper who tries to sell you one of these pieces for an exorbitant price, claiming it is an authentic ancient artifact.


       Most travelers to Nepal and India have heard that they should bargain and barter. The general rule of thumb is to offer roughly half the original asking price and then be prepared to face a few counter offers. Even that might be more than what a savvy local would pay. Unless you are an expat living in the area long term, you are almost certain never to get a local price. Nonetheless, the price you get can be a great one. Just remember never to pay the original asking price or offer what you think a particular item might cost "at home"

Ghau Prayer Boxes and Other Jewelry Displayed Outside Shop in Boudhanath, Kathmandu, Nepal



Buddha Statues, Prayer Wheels and Trinkets Outside a Shop in Boudha District

       Try to visit areas away from the main tourist centers when bargain hunting. Backpackers guides often offer great tips on those locations. Shopkeepers in these locations are much more appreciative of extra business and less willing to lose a sale than vendors in the heavily tourist trafficked areas.

Incense Burners for Buddhist Offerings and Prayer Beads 
       A final tip: Head to the shops early in the morning, as soon as you notice they are open. It is considered bad luck for the day's business to lose the first customer of the day, so this is usually when you will find the best deals.  In my personal experience, if you are diligent, you may be able to get up to 400% off what the average tourist pays.



Saturday, September 21, 2013

The Changing Tibetan Language

The following is an excerpt from Everyday Exile: Life in the Tibetan Settlements of India and Nepal,  by Tammy Winand.

       One of the topics which always interested me in my observations of the Tibetan exile community is the evolution of the culture's native language since the 1959 diaspora in Nepal, India and Bhutan (and now beyond, in western countries) following the Chinese occupation.

       Within Tibet, there are numerous regional dialects of Tibetan. A native of Amdo province may have difficulty communicating verbally with a native of U-Tsang. Since the occupation, it is not unusual for them to have to resort to the Chinese taught in schools to communicate with one another. In some places in Tibet, Tibetan language is no longer taught.
Tibetan U-Chen Style Script Chart

     















       New arrivals from Tibet to the exile communities express difficulty in understanding, sometimes even recognizing, the local dialect as Tibetan. Again, they must often use Chinese to speak with other Tibetans. I witnessed this first hand among the residents of Gu Chu Sum Ex-Political Prisoner Association.

       Dharamsala area officials tell me all new arrivals are offered standard Tibetan language classes when they are matriculated into the community (at Tibetan Transit School). All children born in exile are taught Tibetan language in the school system. However, there are still those who fall through the cracks, whether they somehow arrive undocumented or do not, for whatever reason, attend the offered classes.

        In the Tibetan exile communities of India and Nepal, the influence of Hindi and English on the language is apparent. In local dialect, words such as “pey-cha” (a corruption of the Hindi “paisa”, a monetary unit) and “aloo” (Hindi for potato) are typically used in place of the respective Tibetan “go mo” and “sho gko” for money and potato.

       Walking in the street, one is as likely to hear Tibetan children speaking English or Hindi as Tibetan. Some high school students only want to speak in English with westerners, for various reasons, often refusing to speak Tibetan even with foreigners who are conversant.
Students at TCV Lower in McleodGanj Using English After Class


       A geshe from Lhasa who has been in India more than two decades told me that when he had a chance to return to visit friends and family in Tibet, they asked him jokingly “Where are you from?” because, they told him, his speech had become “very strange”.

       In November 2010, school students from McLeodGanj organized “Language Preservation” marches, circling the town square and 2 main streets with cards showing the Tibetan alphabet. They took pledges to speak and preserve the Tibetan language, with certain days (Lhakhar, aka White Wednesday) where they will only speak Tibetan. Some communities in Tibet are also applying this pledge, refusing to speak Chinese in shops within Tibetan areas, and imposing fines for every Chinese word used.
Tibetan Youth in Dharamsala Signing Pledges for Freedom of Language Language Solidarity March, November 2010



Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Tibetan Faces Travel Portrait Series Launched

My new photography series, Tibetan Faces travel portraits, features the people of the exile settlements in India and Nepal. It explores the concept of "what is a Tibetan?" and examines how traditions battle with modern influence in their evolving society. 

Image #1 shows a young Tibetan girl in a traditional chupa dress attending festivities at Tsuglakhang, the main temple, the week of His Holiness the Dalai Lama's birthday in 2011.


































The second feature is a touching image of a grandmother and her grandchildren, this time wearing modern western everyday clothing, at the same festival.                                                                                            

Over the coming days and weeks, I will post a variety of images from the Tibetan exile communities showing people going about various aspects of their daily lives. These images show some at their most traditional, both in costume and ritual, and others who choose to present their most modern westernized selves. 


If you are interested in reading much more about the Tibetan exile communities in India and Nepal, please visit my Amazon books by Tammy Winand page http://www.amazon.com/Tammy-Winand/e/B0092DJ2V4

I am currently fundraising to return for further volunteer work in the Tibetan community. My next project will focus on challenges faced by Tibetan women, particularly nuns. Please consider making a donation. Thank you.











Tuesday, February 5, 2013

52 Weeks of My Life in Photos, Week 4

As usual, better late than never. The last week of January 2013 was...pretty much a typical week for me. I stayed inside mostly because, well, it is way too cold for my blood.
I love snow, but I HATE the cold.
Every day is a confirmation that somehow I need to save up and not be in Chicago next winter!
Not that I hate Chicago, but...I get sick every time I am outdoors for more than a few minutes just to go to the store.
Makes for pretty scenery, though.
Why can't we have snow AND it be above 55F
Stupid weather!



Friday, January 25, 2013

52 Weeks of My Life in Photos Week 3

Well it was inevitable, being such a terrible blog scheduler, that I would not post week three til the middle of week four, but...better late than never I suppose.

I am not gonna be real chatty abt them this week. Without further ado, week three of 2013 in pics
Starbucks Irving Park 

Art at Starbucks

Clock on Irving Park Road

Winter Sky

That Damn Chair 

Neighborly

Sunday, January 13, 2013

2013: 52 Weeks in My Life in Photos: Week Two

It's here! Week two of the 52 Weeks in My Life in Photos project. YAY!

This week was a little more varied and exciting than last, mainly because the weather was much warmer. Unseasonably warm. I left my room several times, went on walks, spent an afternoon at a coffee shop, and even went all the way downtown to The Loop area. Holy mackerel!

Here comes the tour:
Let's start with an instagram from my general neighborhood area in Irving Park, which is on the northwest side of Chicago. I liked the way the block looked rundown and almost abandoned  even though this is along the main street.
Houses on Irving Park Road

Our next stop is two scenes from Independence Park, a short walking distance from where I live.
I liked the way the tree limbs stood out against the sky when viewed in high contrast monochrome...



While experimenting with a selective color shot of the sour cherries on this tree, a bird (I think it is a cowbird?) flew into the scene and stayed long enough to get a good clear shot. Thanks, bird.




Last but not least, two scenes shot from the Chicago CTA 'L' Blue Line train...the first an instagram while headed into the city...
On the Rails

For this week's parting shot, a capture from the rear car of the same train line, a few hours later, heading back into the suburbs. I was hesitant to use this image at first because of the grime on the train window...but it has enough merit to used in an atmospheric manner, I think.

So there you have it! Week two of 2013 in my life in photos.
Which scene is your favorite?

Monday, January 7, 2013

2013: 52 Weeks of My Life in Photos, Week One

The first week of 2013 was not a bad week. Nothing special to "write home about", as they say, but not bad, as weeks in my life go.
I was stuck in my room most of the week, feeling under the weather in one form or another. I almost posted you pictures of the inside of my shower/bath tub since I didn't get out until the last day of week one!
But you have been spared (for now!)

So, here we go...

Leaf on Frozen Fish Pond in Back Yard, Instagram version

As usual, I ventured no further than the grocery store less than two blocks from my room. Thankfully there are  interesting sights everywhere when you keep your eye tuned for them.
Bare Tree Limbs on My Street
Monday Sky...January 7, 2013 ..Instagram Version

And last but not least, a record of my life and the season in shadows (or something like that)
Long Shadow of Me, January 7, 2013 around 11:30am
There you have it. My life in photos for the week of January 1-7, 2013.
It's supposed to be a little bit warmer during the week ahead, so I am hoping to actually get out and about on at least one day, so next week there will be different scenes to enjoy!

Thursday, January 3, 2013

2013: 52 Weeks of My Life in Photos, Intro

Happy New Year 2013! 

Are you ready for an entirely new theme for this blog? I am!
I finally settled on my theme/direction in photography for the coming year.
As I have no travel plans outside my immediate area (dreams, yes-plans, no), I decided to expand on my recent instagram account theme, which has been well received on that site.


So, welcome to 52 Weeks of My Life in Photos.

What can you expect? A wide range of images which chronicle my current life journey, mainly. I am still learning my camera's functions and trying new techniques, and trying to think of new ways to capture my experience in a creative, artistic manner which will appeal to more than just myself.

Each week I will feature a minimum of 3 images which sum up my life. I am not limiting to any style or subject...there will be instagram shots, color, black and white, and digital effects. Hopefully I can capture the mood or emotion beyond the simple recording of events.

Your feedback will help motivate me. What works for you? What doesn't? What do you want to see more of?

Since this is the intro post and a full week of photo ops has not yet passed, I will leave you with a single image that expresses  my life today...


From now on, my intent is to update weekly on Sundays, using images from the preceding week!.

I love for you to share my work, but, as always, please respect my copyright on these images. They may not be downloaded or used in any way without my express written consent.  I encourage you to link to this blog or my facebook photo page! 

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Udaipur City Palace

Let me apologize for the gap since my last post. I am running a multitude of projects at multiple sites, and at times one takes a back seat to the others.

In addition, I've been doing a lot of deep inner work regarding processing the past three years of my life, as the past week was the third anniversary of my arrival in the Indian town (McLeodGanj, Upper Dharamsala) which became my second home!
I am now fundraising for my return to India, a trip which will be part pilgrimage and part research for my next book.

But without further ado, let's continue the photo retrospective.

We left off with an overview of Udaipur, a fabled destination in the state of Rajasthan.
Today we are going to visit the city's amazing City Palace.

From the roof of my hotel, the exterior of City Palace seemed like a fairy tale.
Udaipur City Palace Exterior 


The palace grounds are splendid, filled with fountains and gardens.
As usual, I declined a tour guide (unwilling to pay the extra fee on my limited budget) and wandered deeper into the site, where I spotted these guards on their magnificent horses.
Mounted Palace Guards
The interior features ornate carvings, hand painted murals, gilded statues both sacred and secular, graceful lantern fixtures and mirrored ceilings and walls.




As part of the experience, a boat tour is offered, which takes visitors on a cruise around Lake Pichola, including a stop at another famous site, Jag Mandir, which I will feature in my next entry.
From the boat, the magnificent lines of the massive palace can best be appreciated.

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Udaipur Overview

I arrived in Udaipur, the City of Lakes, in mid November 2009 after a 17 hour over-night train journey from Mumbai and checked into a budget backpacker's guesthouse in the Old City.

My first impressions were of the contrast between the splendor of the amazing historic architectural landmarks and the poor sanitation of the modern streets. Again, I was overwhelmed by the culture of haggling at shops and my own feelings of embarrassment as I made cultural behavioral bloopers.


Sadhu on Bench near Lake Pichola


From my Sacred Sojourns blog, written 3 days into my Udaipur stay:

"Udaipur…what can I say about the almost magical beauty yet jolting realities of this place?

Imagine, if you can, being in a medieval world, where royalty holds sway in palaces (both real and metaphorical) and common folk struggle to survive in narrow streets teaming with animals and refuse, where open sewage gutters flow in front of luxury restaurants.

Imagine the sounds of dogs, donkeys, cows and locals echoing off plaster walls competing with motorbike engines and auto horns. Imagine muezzin’s prayer calls resounding from mosques throughout the day and Hindu chanting emanating from lakefront temples, competing with modern Bollywood music blaring from rooftop boom boxes and the sounds of construction.

Streets meander past fabulously painted and ornately carved doors and windows and intricate building facades. Shop fronts overflow with richly colored saris and pashminas, traditional antique silver and semi-precious stone jewelry, hand-tooled leather journals, and statues of various Hindu gods in all sizes, old and new. Fruit and vegetable sellers ply their goods between cyber cafes and mobile phone shops.

From the rooftops, especially at dawn and sunset/dusk, the city seems to float above Lake Pichola, as if emerging from or sinking into a dream. Five hundred year old palace ramparts rise on one side, ghats lined with shops and temples on the other, and in the shimmering lake, the mirage-like Jag Mandir and gleaming white Lake Palace complete the scene.

The incongruities of India continue to astound me, sometimes with laughter, sometimes with fears and tears. You never know what will happen next, here."
Cows Grazing in front of Vegetarian Cooking Class Sign


Schoolgirls Walking Behind Construction Pack Animals

Motorbike Parked Beside Traditional Rajasthani Wall Mural




Udaipur, I feel,  was where I finally began to embrace being in India.



Heads up! If you love these images from Udaipur, my FREE iTunes app Rajasthan: Wet and Dry is sure to delight you. Get it for your iPhone or iPad FREE now!

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Leaving Mumbai

I left Mumbai on November 11, 2009 on the overnight train to Udaipur. The house boy, who spoke no English, took me via taxi to the station, as my host was working, and made sure I got safely on the coach.

For some reason, the ride across Mumbai made a greater visual impression on me than many other aspects of my stay there. Tropical Cyclone Phyan, for which the warning was posted about an hour before my departure from Bombay, caused localized flooding and traffic jams. It was the coolest weather since my arrival in India.

Haji Ali Mosque
Children in Flooded Street

Traffic Jam
Street Scene

Next stop...Udaipur Overview

Monday, September 10, 2012

Awas Beach Trip

One of my adventures during my stay in Mumbai was a day trip to my friend's family beach house in Awas. We took an early morning ferry from the Gateway of India heading south across a spit of the Arabian Sea. The boat was crowded with day trippers including families, foreign tourists, and a mens' soccer team. There was a lot of picnicking, card playing, and some even had musical instruments for everyone to sing along. 

En route, the variety of tiny wooden fishing boats bobbing on the water next to huge cargo ships was mind boggling. 

Eventually we arrived at the Mandwa Jetty pier and procured a very old auto rikshaw to take us to Awas village. 

The family home sits in a huge tropical garden overflowing with vines and a variety of both wild and cultivated plants tended by an elderly caretaker and his wife who live on the property.

We walked through the village to the wide beach, which my friend told me is one of the cleanest in the entire region due to the current moving rubbish away from shore. Many beaches around Mumbai are not safe for swimming due to severe pollution.
Cargo Ships on Arabian Sea


Small Fishing Boat on Arabian Sea


Schoolgirls in Awas Village
Vines on the Beach House
Sandy Expanse at Awas Beach
Family Dog with Bindi on Forehead

 Although it was very hot and humid the day of our visit (as most of the year is), I have fond memories of the day.