July Update

Since my last post, my life has been more than a little unsettled.
I moved into a new studio/apartment and unpacked all of my possessions and supplies for the first time since 2004.
I also started a new job at the Art Institute of Chicago museum gift shop, which occupies the majority of my time.
My days off have been dedicated to cleaning and stocking my new home, and resting up from work.

I feel like things are finally beginning to settle into place, but I have a long way to go on prioritizing all my creative pursuits to make the best use of what little free time I now have available.

Thanks for being patient with my lack of new image posts.
Let me leave you with a couple of contrasting shots from the Alsdorf Gallery of Asian Art at the Art Institute to tide you over til next time.
Carved Stone Deity from Himalayan Region
Japanese Floral Arrangement

It's in the Details

The details of landscape, both natural and man-made, have fascinated me for at least the past decade. Since relocating to Chicago, I've been actively pursuing unique perspectives on the urban landscape.
Nothing is off limits. I have been shooting subjects as simple, and unusual, as manhole covers, cracks in the sidewalk, pipes and wires, shadows, abstract patterns in the metalwork of bridges, and traffic signage.

This week I'll give you a sampler, a range of images you may find familiar or foreign, depending on your point of reference.
Rusted Structure

Rusted Metal Marker in Chicago River

Manhole Cover in Cracked Pavement

Chicago's 'L' Train Tracks



Everyday Exotic



When I started this blog, my intention was not only to showcase my photography, but to present the cultures where I had been living and working for the two years prior to this project. The focus was on the "exotic".

However, having since relocated to Chicago, I have had to revise my definition of exotic.
For me, discovering new neighborhoods could be considered an adventure.
And for someone born and raised in the Himalayas, wouldn't urban and suburban America be exotic?

So, without further ado, I'd like to present my first exotic Chicago photo essay, from my first trip to Chinatown earlier this year.
Signage in Chinatown

Glazed Ceramic Tile Peacock on Chinatown Shop Wall
Signage in Chicago Chinatown

Shop Signage in Chicago's Chinatown
Restaurant Worker Preparing Chinese BBQ Including Peking Duck


According to the wikipedia entry, Chicago's Chinatown began around 1869, when workers from the Trans-Continental railroad came looking to get away from anti-Chinese violence in the "Old West", making it the second oldest Chinese settlement in the USA.
Grandmother Walking with Young Girl in Chicago Chinatown

2012 "Mid" Year Update

It's fast approaching June 2012, the middle of the year, a good place to take stock and measure progress.


A lot of things have changed for me since I began this blog in December 2011. 
I no longer have immediate plans to return to Nepal and India, which brings me both relief and sorrow in ways I cannot possibly explain. 


Instead, I will be relocating to Chicago (!) in just a week from tomorrow. This has meant a lot of upheaval in my personal as well as professional pursuits/goals.


I am re-assessing plans for my next self-published photography books and hopefully will be ready to move on with that project before the end of 2012.


I would like to have my first public photography exhibit (coffeehouse or gallery is my hope) before the end of 2012, as well.


I am hoping the vibrant arts scene in Chicago will support me in ways that have previously seemed to be out of reach. Not only financially, but in finding a creative community within which to network and grow.


The first of my Chicago mini photo essays "should" be ready to post prior to the end of the first week of June.


Shifting Focus

To better reflect my current life back in the US, this blog will be shifting gears somewhat. In the future, photo essays and posts will not be limited to my past adventures in Himalayan destinations or cultures.


I am preparing to relocate to Chicago at the start of June 2012. It's a very exciting and somewhat frightening time for me, but I look forward to a wealth of new images to share with you.


Watch for more urban architectural shots, cityscapes and street photography as I get to know my new home. Chicago has a rich history, and is home to a vibrant blend of cultures. I look forward to exploring its Chinatown, Indian community, and other ethnic areas, amongst more "touristy" destinations. 


I will try to feature a blast from the past piece from my travels in India and Nepal on a semi-regular basis, for those who prefer my work in that field.


Thank you to everyone who has visited thus far. I look forward to building a broader audience and of course continue to encourage your comments/feedback.


Downtown Chicago Reflected in "The Bean" (Cloud Gate), Sepia Tone, 2012


Don't forget! You can view and purchase all my work from various destinations both exotic and domestic by following the links from my Galleries page.





Rajasthan: Wet and Dry no longer available

(this app is no longer available)

Greetings from sunny central Florida.
It's with great pleasure that I announce the arrival of my long awaited FREE iTunes digital photography app, Rajasthan: Wet and Dry.

Rajasthan: Wet and Dry features 34 color and black and white images shot on my first visit to India in late autumn 2009. These scenes showcase some of the fabulous ways water and the desert climate has figured into the life of Rajasthan since ancient times. It moves us across the landscape, through history and through the various cultures which have shaped the region.

Here's a teaser from the app:

Rooftop Geranium

Despite its broken container & the high levels of local pollution, this Red Geranium seems to flourish in Boudhanath, Kathmandu
Triumph in the face of adversity.

Phulbari Street, Boudha, Kathmandu

Didis (Sisters) at a Phulbari Street Shop

In the Boudha neighborhood of Kathmandu, just outside the kora area around the Great Stupa which is the center of life, lies Phulbari Street. Like most main streets in the region, it is lined with shops catering to all the aspects of daily life, from groceries to clothing to religious needs. The locals often congregate outside friends' shops, whiling away the hours.
Nepali Men Resting in Shade 
Life flows at a far different pace in Nepal than in the western world, especially in traditional areas such as Boudha. My impression was that most of life takes place in the street or in small cafes.
Tibetan Girl Outside Phulbari Street Shop
There is no rush, in Phulbari Street. Just the timeless rhythms of commerce and killing time.

Swayambunath, Kathmandu, Nepal



Across the Himalayas, in the Kathmandu Valley, Mahayana Buddhists and Hindus often worship at sites which contain temples from both religions. One of these sites is Swayambhunath, on the eastern side of Kathmandu.
Devotees at Swayambunath

And, of course, Nepali natives also come to these sites as tourists, not solely as devotees.
Pyar=Love: A Nepali Couple Share a Moment at Swayambunath

Solo

Scrawled on the Wall of a "Downtown" McleodGanj Construction Site
My belated Valentine's Day post...
It seems Cupid was running around northern India, shooting his arrows...and, apparently, missing the mark (at least that was MY interpretation).

Meanwhile, at the opposite end of town, an Indian post box seems to wait for good news.


McleodGanj Area Monasteries

Zilnon KagyeLing Nyingma Monastery with Dhauladhar Range Behind





Tibetans, as most Mahayana Buddhists, include a great deal of ritual worship in their daily life. The monastery is traditionally the center of their community and spiritual life. Many of the ornate hand crafted details in the architecture of these buildings have spiritual significance.


There are numerous Tibetan Buddhist monasteries on the hillsides encircling McleodGanj. 


Zilnon Kagyeling monastery (pictured above), in the Nyingma School, is located above town against the backdrop of the Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas, and among the most easily photographed.


Namgyal Monastery, the seat of His Holiness Dalai Lama, is a Gelugpa Monastery and part of a spread out temple complex in the town of McleodGanj. There are other smaller monasteries, including Tsangpa, located in this temple complex, as well.
Stupa on Kora Behind Namgyal Monastery Compex
Gyuto Tantric Monastery and College, situated a few miles below Lower Dharamsala in the village of Sidhbari, is the temporary residence in exile of His Holiness the Karmapa (whose traditional seat is the disputed Rumtek Monastery outside Gangtok, Sikkim).


Nechung Monastery is located at the base of the Tibetan Parliament in Exile and Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, roughly midway between McleodGanj and Lower Dharamsala. Nechung is the seat of The Nechung State Oracle, also known as Kuten la.
Snow Lion Outside Temple Room of Nechung Monastery, with Dhauladhars in Background
Tse Choekling Gelugpa Monastery is situated in a valley at the base of a hill below McleodGanj, accessible by a long flight of stairs from the alley behind Om Hotel.
Tse Choekling Monastery Viewed from Stairs to McleodGanj



I look forward to your feedback!
All images copyright Tammy Winand/Everyday Exile Project

Welcoming His Holiness Dalai Lama

Tibetan Residents of Mcleod Ganj, HP, India Line the Street Awaiting Return of HH Dalai Lama in October  2010




While he has now given up his role as the political head of the Tibetan people, the Dalai Lama 
continues to  travel internationally several times annually to give Buddhist teachings in addition to secular speeches on ethics and mind science.


Tibetans mark his return from each of these journeys with a show of devotion. They consider HH Dalai Lama to be a manifestation of the Buddhist compassion deity Chenrezig, and offer prayers, khata (prayer scarves), incense, and many other traditional emblems.

Tibetan Women in Traditional Dress Offer Khata Prayer Scarves as a Sign of Devotion While Awaiting Return of HH Dalai Lama to His Exile home in McleodGanj, HP, India


The community always knows the date, even the time almost down to the minute, when His Holiness will return back to his temple and residence complex. They begin to turn out that morning, often 4-6 hours ahead of him, to await the auspicious moment. Tibetans, along with long term expats and Buddhist students from around the world, and of course lucky tourists, line the streets along his 
return route and the entrance to his temple and residence complex and make offerings as they wait.
A Tibetan Child Plays Beside Older Family Members Offering Incense While Awaiting the Return of HH Dalai Lama to McleodGanj in June 2011
It is such a joy to hear the police sirens in advance of His Holiness' "motorcade" and know that he has arrived back again safely. The atmosphere of the entire town is noticeably different when "their god" (as he is sometimes referred to by local Indian media) is in residence. 

*PLEASE NOTE: 
HH Dalai Lama is not actually considered to be a god. It is complicated, but the most simple As mentioned above, he is viewed in Tibetan Buddhism as an emanation, or manifestation, of the bodhisattva of compassion, known in Tibetan as Chenrezig (Sanskrit Avalokiteshvara). In his own words, he is nothing more than a "simple monk".
Special Banners Decorate the Tibetan Exile Capital of McleodGanj When He Returns from a State Visit
In This Instance, He Had Visited US President Barack Obama in February 2010


 All Images Copyright Tammy Winand and the Everyday Exile Project and may not be used in any way without her express written permission.

All images are available as prints and posters or upon request. 


Candle in the Dark

Buddhist Monk Lighting Butter Lamps in Phulbari Street, Boudha, Nepal
During May 2011, the Buddhist communities of greater Kathmandu, Nepal celebrated Vesak, the holy days of the Buddha Sakyamuni's birth, enlightenment, and attainment of Nirvana upon his physical death.

I came across this scene on my way back to my guesthouse near the Great Stupa pilgrimage site in Boudhanath one evening close to Vesak. Lighting butter lamps is one way Buddhists make offerings to show their devotion.

The women selling the butter lamps (for 5 Nepal rupees each) are from the Tamang ethnic group.

Sunbeams in Silence: What is Holy?

Sunbeams Illuminating Interior of Tibetan Buddhist Monastery
In winter 2010, I had the good fortune to be asked to go with a musician friend to shoot some video clips for her forthcoming DVD. We chose the small, quiet Tibetan settlement of Bir (aka Chautra) in Himachal, Pradesh, north India as our set.

Bir Settlement has one road, and at least four Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in various traditions. Late one afternoon, wandering the street before dinner, we decided to stop by a small Nyingma tradition monastery. The monk attendant pleasantly agreed to allow us to tour inside and gave me permission to shoot freely.

He took us around the room, and happily explained to the best of his ability what we were observing. My friend speaks fairly fluent Tibetan and is well versed in the culture, whereas, at the time, I understood only basic language and knew less about the religion and history.

As we completed the short tour and turned to leave in respectful silence, I noticed these brilliant sunbeams illuminating the interior. For me, it felt like a sacred and holy moment.

Image copyright Tammy Winand
Available as a poster up to 32 x 24" at Support for Tibet on Zazzle

Gilded Gods

Gilded Cherezig Statue at Tsuglakhang, the Main Temple of HH Dalai Lama in McleodGanj
Gilded Gods. It has a very poetic sound, doesn't it?
But to be fair, it's not entirely accurate.


Buddhism does not have a God, or gods, in the sense of a creator. The deities of Buddhism are (or were) living beings from different realms of Samsara. The historic Buddha, or Buddha Sakyamuni, was a man who became enlightened and taught how to transcend samsara, and is hence a supreme being. There are numerous other "deities" in Buddhism. (also recommended: Buddhas & Deities)


Statues of these deities are generally made from the finest materials an artist has available, and to the best of the artist's skill level, as a sign of respect and veneration. Hence the number of gilded (golden) ornate statues adorned with precious and semi-precious stone.
Buddha Sakyamuni Statue with Offerings at HH Dalai Lama Temple in McleodGanj
The Statue at Left is the Buddha Meditating Before He Attained Enlightenment
Maitreya, the "Future Buddha", in a Monastery in Boudha, Kathmandu, Nepal
Golden Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) Statue in HH Dalai Lama Temple, McleodGanj.
The Pink Light represents an Offering of Flame
Green Tara Statue at Pilgrimage Site in Tso Pema, HP, India
This article is intended as a photographic introduction to interest viewers in this fascinating topic, not as a comprehensive or scholarly study. 

All Images Copyright Tammy Winand

Cow Cleaning Service

Tibetan Buddhist Monk Dusting Off a Cow Which Had Rolled in Monsoon Mud Earlier in the Day


Cows are everywhere in the streets of India. It took some time for me to realize that the western concept of "sacred cows" is not quite accurate. 


While cows are indeed considered sacred, and the sale and consumption of beef is illegal in many parts of the country (including McleodGanj)...in fact, one often hears people talk more openly about consuming heroin than beef...the "sacredness" is more accurately the mere act of co-existence. 


Cows are left to wander freely. And wander they do. Usually into rubbish piles to dine on discarded scraps as well as cardboard and plastic, and into the streets to sleep. Which makes navigating the steep narrow streets of McleodGanj a true challenge.

Large Cow Resting in Temple Road, a Steep Winding Two-Way Main Road in McleodGanj


McleodGanj...My India

McleodGanj Looking Northeast at Triund and the Dhauladhar Range of the Himalayas
McleodGanj.
This is, for the most part, and to date, "my" India. 


A short intro:
McleodGanj, a former British hill station since the early 19th century, is a mystical place in the Himalayan foothills. Also known as Upper Dharamsala (Dhasa, or Little Lhasa), it has been the home of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, the exiled Tibetan Government, and thousands of Tibetan refugees since they fled the armed Chinese occupation of their homeland in Tibet beginning in 1959.


The community is an eclectic mix of Tibetan, Indian (local Gaddi tribes people, a strong Kashmiri influence, & a steadily increasing influx of visitors from the hotter plains of nearby Punjab), and western (as scores of expats and other travelers from every imaginable country live or pass through). (More on this HERE)
The TIPA Road Area of McleodGanj
Built on a series of ridges in the Dhauladhar Range of the Himalayas, McleodGanj is a rapidly growing tourist hot-spot. Leaving town for a few months, on return one notices new shops, restaurants and hotels at seemingly every turn, despite the threat of severe earthquakes (the entire region was devastated in the 1905 Kangra quake) and frequent monsoon-related mini-landslides.


I first arrived in McleodGanj in late 2009, after an emotionally draining experience early during my first visit to India. By my second day there, I had regained a sense of calm and joy which had become increasingly rare. Within little more than a week, I had cancelled the rest of my India tour for that trip and declared this my second home. 


I will feature various aspects of life there many times in future photo posts.
But for now, I'll let the images speak for themselves in the rest of this introduction. 
ENJOY!
Temple Road Viewed from Tsuglakhang, His Holiness Dalai Lama's Temple
Peaks Above McleodGanj on the Morning After a Winter Storm
Winter Snowfalls Vary from a Few Inches Most Years to Several Feet (January 2012 saw 2+  Ft Downtown)


The Challenge of Beggars in India

One of the most difficult obstacles any westerner will face in India is beggars. Before going any further, my best advice is, know the facts about begging, and then decide how you want to handle it.

Begging is a complicated situation. A google search for “beggars in India” leads to a wealth of articles on the topic. I particularly liked this piece from Go India, but I recommend you do your own advance research. 

Here are some basic things to know:

Despite appearances, not all beggars are poor. Some own expensive mobile phones, jewelry, even homes and cars. For them, begging is a lucrative job. I am personally aware of beggars in my Indian hometown whose daily income is more than double my daily budget.

Charities exist to help the poor. In my town, one charity offers free food, shelter, clothing and an education for the children. The local beggar camps refused to stay there unless they were paid 5000 rupees per month (an estimated $100 USD), to cover the income they would lose.

There are religious traditions of begging. A sadhu or Buddhist monk who has renounced worldly concerns must rely on the community for all of his basic needs. For the most part, it is safe to give small amounts to these men. 
Sadhus at Jagdish Mandir Hindu Temple in Udaipur, Rasjathan
On some festival days, it is customary for every citizen (according to the tradition of “dana”, or generosity) who is able to give a coin to every beggar he encounters. On these dates, beggars come from all over the surrounding area to participate.
Tibetan Refugee from Kham Region Giving Coins to Indian Monks in McleodGanj, Himachal Pradesh on Saga Dawa,  Buddhism's Most Holy Day
Many beggars are organized into gangs, with a leader who instructs them where to go (based on number of tourists/highest potential for earnings). They travel between various regions of India, often seasonally. I have seen one of these gang leaders go around at the end of a day with a tally book to record how much each of his people earned.

Many adult beggars are alcoholics or drug addicts. Some men force their wives and children to beg to support these habits.


Lepers and other handicapped persons, such as the blind, frequently resort to begging. 

You will encounter disheveled women dressed in rags carrying babies. They are very persistent, will follow you in the street and may even grab your arm or clothing. In the cities, they will beat on your car windows. Be aware that, on most occasions, the babies are rented on a daily basis, because people are more likely to give to a woman with a child out of sympathy.
Women in Rags with Babies Waiting for Tourists in McleodGanj, Himachal Pradesh
The children are particularly wily. Some of them speak multiple languages and have a range of pitiful tales to tell to evoke pity. They have learned how easy it is to make a living out of making others feel sorry for them.
Young beggar in McleodGanj, Himchal Pradesh Watching a Tibetan Tradeswoman
IF you decide to give anything, give small amounts. Be aware of the value of local currency. It is not wrong to give as little as 1 rupee, and never more than 10.

Avoid giving sweets to children. Avoid buying anything which can be resold (particularly milk, rice, and beans/dhal). Do not share your meal with urchins who approach you at outdoor cafes. These acts all perpetuate the beggar culture.


Some beggars are aggressive and annoying, very impersonal, just out to work their scams and make their money. Others seem eager to interact with all who pass and show what seems to be sincere gratitude. 


As a part time India resident (16 non-consecutive months over 2 years) who has discussed the issue repeatedly with other expats and locals, it's interesting to observe the different aspects of this complex situation and how both natives and tourists cope with it.


“Experts” recommend the best way to deal with begging is to ignore it. If you are going to be in India for a long time, I do recommend you try this. While the relative poverty and illness around you is disheartening, giving handouts to everyone with a sad story does nothing to help in the long run. They advise donating to established trusted local charities rather than to individuals.

In closing, to repeat, learn as much as you can about the reality, and act in a way that you feel is most beneficial.
All images copyright Tammy Winand

Get Out of Your Comfort Zone

Travel in India for the uninitiated will get you out of your comfort zone like nothing else will. You will be confronted with sights, sounds and smells which you have never before encountered. And many of them will not be pleasant. 
Different sets of travelers will have different experiences, based on many factors. But one thing which all should bear in mind is that India is a challenge, and a state of mind. 


India does not exist to suit you. If you want to embrace India, it is your duty to accept that this chaos is a way of life and way of thinking that you, the foreigner, must learn to live with in order to get to India’s blessings.


People will stare at you...


Boy at a Chai Walla (tea stall) in Mumbai
Sometimes they will look like they want to eat you alive. This can be very disconcerting. But generally, this is simply their way of expressing curiosity. Believe it or not, many (yes, even in major cities) have never met a westerner. All they have been exposed to is television and film portrayals of western society. No wonder they think we are oddities! 


Curious Boy in Rural Rajasthan 
 Some will approach you, ask what seem like inappropriate personal questions (again, this is an expression of curiosity), and ask for your photo. Be aware that agreeing can mean posing with every member of the family, multiple times! 
[Single women, be aware that men may try to touch you (they seem to think we don't mind...let them know clearly if you DO mind).]
This Young Mumbai Shopkeeper Called Out "Take my photo, Miss!"
Be curious back. Ask questions. 
Try to learn a bit of the language and culture. 
Learn the value of the currency and local going rates!
Don't be afraid to make stupid mistakes (this one is particularly difficult for me).
Rajasthani Men at Kumbhalgarh Fort, Rajasthan
And for goodness sake, keep your sense of humor! You're going to need it!


All images copyright Tammy Winand.